In Croatia, I knew about Dubrovnik and Zagreb but I have to admit I did not know much about Split. I went there because it was midway between these 2 cities and it was part of the list of places to see in Croatia. Now, Split is a very interesting place - it has history, beauty and a whole lot of quirks which I found amusing and endearing at the same time. And coming from the expensive and over crowded Dubrovnik, it was a welcome change as well. As soon as I got down from the bus, I noticed the harbour and views such as these instantly melted my heart.
My hostel was just outside the famous Diocletian's palace built 1700 years ago and to stay near such a historic place was an unexpected treat. Some part of the palace is in ruins, while some of it is being refurbished. Every time I went back to my hostel, I admired the entry gate to the palace and pinched myself to make sure I was not having a dream !
Split was formed as a tiny settlement by the Greeks and when Romans conquered it in the Illyrian wars, the province was named as Dalmatia. Then, the Roman emperor Diocletian planned Split as his retirement home (as it was close to the capital Salona). This is a military fortress like palace with high and thick walls. The palace is beautiful - today it consists of homes, shops, cafes, bars & restaurants, souvenir shops etc. It is incredible how a historical landmark has been inhabited, yet the charm has been retained successfully.
When I arrived in the morning, I was lucky to witness the locals singing a Dalmatian song -
The walls of the palace are adorned with sculptures and it is important to keep an eye out to spot these beauties.
Split is cocooned between the mountains and Adriatic sea. The watch tower is the perfect viewpoint to admire this protection bestowed by nature. Just for 4€, you get a panoramic view of the entire region. The colors are grand and I was up here a long time taking in the beauty. The narrow steps leading to the top are fun and apart from the views, you can have a look at the very old bell which has been retained here. Alongside the tower, the Cathedral of Saint Dominus is worth visiting too. It is one of the oldest cathedrals in the world and has a fabulous interior.
I didn't realize how time had flown and it was time to find something to munch. The market nearby had a wide assortment of fruits and vegetables and I decided to combine something healthy with the local dish I was planning to taste. Soparnik is a baked savoury pie mixed from flour, salt, olive oil and water. Other ingredients can be added to give it a distinct flavour.
In places where I did not find vegetarian food, there was always pizza outlets (serving 2-3 varieties of veg pizzas) that saved my day. The Italian influence has been immense for centuries and it is very common to find a pizza parlour in the streets of Croatia. Meanwhile, I had my snacks at the harbour, admiring the ships preparing to leave for the Dalmatian islands. Pretty soon, I will be taking one of those rides !
When the sun becomes too much, it is time to head back inside the palace. This time, I started with the basement which has an interesting story behind it. The Roman emperors built this passage underneath the palace floor in such a way that it got filled with sea water and their boats could sail through the gate allowing them to step directly into the palace area, without setting foot in the harbour. Over a period of time, sea water receded and now the lower tier consists of a museum and souvenir shops.
There is so much to see and observe. Exploring the streets inside the palace and getting lost led to a lot of discoveries - it was like I was walking in an open air museum.
On the way to Riva harbour promenade, there is an entire street filled with high end shops and restaurants.
The local football team (Hajduk Split), was formed by a group of students in a tavern. Having a massive fan following, it is one of the most successful teams in former Yugoslavia & today's Croatia. Its rivalry with another biggie of Croatia Dinamo Zagreb is huge and their matches are called the Eternal Derby. The Hajduk Split fans are one of the oldest organized set of fans in Europe, founded in 1950 - another fact I did not know !
The architecture is stunning and there are lots of landmark buildings in the vicinity.
I moved towards the harbour for the sunset, which was sensational and as the lights come on, it was a mesmerizing sight. For me, it is the time when Split comes alive with its colors, lights and music - it is truly a beautiful time to walk around or just sit in a corner observing everything.
Even though I had left Dubrovnik, Game of Thrones did not leave me. I found a very good souvenir shop which was dedicated to Game of Thrones and other famous movies/shows. I bought "Stranger Things" (one of my favorite shows) souvenirs but I was tempted to buy a lot more !
The dinner options are aplenty and I chose to have a vegan dinner. The pumpkin soup was different and not something I particularly liked but the other items in the menu more than made up for it.
After dinner, it was time to attend an event going on in the main square. It was about the Roman rule in Dalmatia and the various wars fought during that period. There were a lot of actors involved who were enacting the role of kings, queens, ministers and soldiers.
It was a fascinating peek into history and I loved every minute of it. There were speeches given by various actors but a lot of time was devoted to war cries, fights and army formations.
Once it was over, I went back to the promenade and spent some tranquil moments - listening to the sound of waves and looking at the city lights !
Late night walks are an entirely different way of experiencing the old town without the crowds and sounds. I lingered in the streets for some time before making my way back to the hostel for a much deserved shut eye.
Comments