Hvar Island is a short from Split and very accessible, as there is a ferry every hour. I was amazed how big the ship was and it was such a comfortable experience - it felt like a huge hotel on water. There are 2 types of ships - one is direct to Hvar port and another one is to Stari Grad, from where you need to take a bus to reach the centre of town.
As I left Split, I had the opportunity to admire the beauty of the place from a distance. The way mountains and sea have combined to protect this piece of land is amazing.
The Croatian islands have always been hot property on the travel circuit and after visiting Dalmatia, I believe they are worth all the hype.
At Hvar, my first priority was grabbing something to eat and once that was taken care of, I roamed around in the town centre.
Hvar island is unusual because it has fertile coastal land along with supply of fresh water springs. It is little wonder then that there are pine forests, vineyards, fruit trees and lavender fields everywhere on the island. Now, it is a nice place to spend your day eating, drinking and doing nothing.
Hvar's claim to fame - Juan Vucetich, the anthropologist & police official, who pioneered the use of fingerprinting was born here. Also the oldest public theatre in Europe was built here in 1612.
There is lots to admire as you walk along the promenade. If the sun gets to you, there are a lot of options available for a drink or an ice cream. The added bonus is you get some stunning views as well.
After lazing around in the harbour, one can visit the Franciscan monastery, which has a nice view of Tar islands. But, wherever you go, Tvrdava Fortica dominates the skyline and it is impossible to miss.
The lure of the fortress was too strong to resist and instead of going there later in the evening, I decided it had to be my next stop. Initially, I was unable to find the right route and when I saw other travelers going around in circles too, I was glad I wasn't the only clueless guy out there. After a few minutes of venturing into different streets, I made a U-turn and headed towards the walls of the fort hoping to find my way to the top by walking along the walls.
As I ascended the steps, it felt I was in a different world altogether. The area is dotted with beautiful restaurants & shops and exploring the tiny streets was a pleasurable pastime. I actually forgot that I was trying to reach the fort and I didn't mind this diversion one bit. By this point, I was truly, madly and deeply in love with the place !
If you have a strong willpower that allows you to actually cross this area without stopping by, I must commend you on your single mindedness to reach your destination. As for me, I spent a long time here before moving on. There were some pomegranate trees along the way but the fruit was out of reach and I was too conscious to make an attempt to steal them anyway !
The higher I climbed, the better the view - this might be one of my slowest hikes ! In such a picturesque setting, I spent a lot of time looking at the sea, the islands and the buildings.
Hvar island has always been important strategically as a naval base & for trade to Italy and the wider Mediterranean region. The Byzantines built a citadel in the 6th century & Venetians began constructing the fortress in the 13th century, before it was strengthened in the middle of 16th century.
It saved a lot of Hvar's population, who sheltered in the fort when the Ottomans attacked. The Austrians have renovated it in the 19th century & now, it is the most recognized symbol of the island.
After spending more than an hour admiring the views and enjoying the cool breeze, I retreated back to the harbour looking for something to eat and spend my evening at the waterfront.
I found a cute little friend who was also on the lookout for some food -
From Hvar, one can hop on to other beautiful islands like Bisevo, Budikovac or Pakleni. There are opportunities to visit the famous Blue Cave, Monk Seal Cave or the Green Cave. The fisherman's village of Komiza or Stiniva cove on Vis island is also another option worth exploring. However, I postponed all this for a future date, as today I just wanted to enjoy the sun setting on a glorious day in Hvar island - a place which held me under its spell right from the word go !
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