It would be an understatement to say that I was not prepared for the beauty of Kotor. The morning started on an inauspicious note when my trip from Budva was delayed by a couple of hours, as all the morning buses were full and I had to wait to take the one which had seats available. The views from the bus were just a teaser for what was to come.
Kotor is a coastal town in Montenegro located in a secluded part of Gulf of Kotor. Together with the overhanging limestone cliffs, Kotor and its surrounding area form an impressive landscape.
Built between the 12th and 14th centuries, Kotor has been ruled by Romans, Bulgaria, Serbia, Hungary, Bosnia, Venetians, French & Ottomans. Its old port is surrounded by fortifications built by Venetians in the 15th/16th century.
During World War I, it was used as the base of the Austro-Hungarian Navy & the area was witness to some of the fiercest battles between local Slavs and Austria-Hungary. After 1918, the city became a part of Yugoslavia and officially became known as Kotor. During World War II, Italy annexed the area of Kotor between 1941 and 1943.
The old city is filled with medieval architecture and historic monuments. Extending over four kilometers, the city walls that have protected Kotor for centuries lead up to the fortress of Saint Ivan. Since the early 2000s, Kotor has seen an increase in tourists, many of them coming by cruise ships.
As soon as I got down from the walk and started walking towards the old town, I saw the Biker Pub. Just opened for the day and anyways, it was too early for the bikers and revellers !
My first task was to find the post office so that I could send picture postcards to my friends in India. Like in Bosnia, the postal employees in Montenegro were not sure about the value of stamp to be used for postcards to India. They had to consult their computer database to find the same - there is always a first time ! After posting the cards, I walked towards the harbour and at the entrance to the old town, I found this dragon warning the public about the use of plastics.
I explored the old town, confined within the walls of the fort. Like Budva, it is a mix of old and new - the history and sights act as tourist magnets and the thriving shops & restaurants ensure these tourists spend a lot of time (and money) within these walls. As it was sunny, I walked in the shade and ventured into every little street. On a couple of occasions, I entered the private residences but quickly corrected course.
These lights have always fascinated me and the colors were too good to be true -
The church of St. Nicholas, church of Our Lady of Health, cathedral of Sv. Tripun, Ozana church are some of the historical buildings which attract the tourists. These buildings have been massively damaged by earthquakes in 1667 and 1979. They have been repaired and carefully restored over the years.
Kotor reminded me a little of Dubrovnik or Split with its attractive architecture and cream coloured cobbled streets. The similarity is not surprising as all are a few hours’ drive (or sail) apart along the same stretch of the Adriatic coast. But, one thing which surprised me was the abundance of cats. Kotor has a large population of cats that have become a symbol of the city. The city has several cat stores, a cat museum and the Cats' Square. Water and food is left throughout the city for the cats to feed on, and cardboard boxes are often arranged for the cats to sleep in.
Why are there so many cats ? The most logical answer on the origin of cats came from a woman working in the shop ‘Cats of Kotor’. She explained that for centuries Kotor was a busy trading port and with those ships came cats from all around the world. Many of them got left behind and today Kotor not only has a very large kitty population, but it also has a very multicultural one!
Once I saw the peak and fortifications behind the old town, I decided it had to be my next destination. My initial attempts to find the route were unsuccessful as I could only see "No Entry" signs wherever I tried. But, when I reached a viewpoint near the edge of the old town, I could see a few people on their way to the top of the fort. With soaring spirits and a spring in my step, I joined them.
You can be forgiven if you stop every few minutes during the hike, as the views are just gorgeous. That's when I realized that I could stay here for a few days and do a lot of hiking with views that melt your heart. The mountains add a different color to the painting that is Kotor !
The road which passes through Kotor along the Adriatic coast goes all the way to Dubrovnik and that's the one I will be taking in the next few days. My only hope is that I get a left side window seat which would give me the best view of the coast during the journey.
I found the "increased risk zone" sign quite funny. I did not come all this way to turn back now, and to be frank, the increased risk is non existent !
Kotor is enclosed within the high cliffs of Mt. Lovcen, which is the highest mountain in Montenegro. The fortifications include military architecture mainly of Venice & from Illyria, Byzantium & Austria.
There is a trail behind the fort going towards the top of this mountain and maybe even to Mt. Lovcen. On a clear day, one can have a look at the entire country from there. I find it baffling, to say the least ! This fact did not leave my head for a long time, even after I had left the country.
I spend a lot of time enjoying the stunning views. Only when I felt hungry and decided that it was time for a very late lunch did I move from this vantage point.
Time for one final look before I reached the base - for me, it would probably be the enduring image of this wonderful country.
Back in the old town, it was easy to find empty seats in the restaurants as it was way past the lunch time. Black Risotto (seafood) is a specialty here and since I had to try something close to that, I opted for the veg risotto !
In the evening, I explored areas outside the old town and spent some time at the harbour.
Kotor and even Montenegro, for that matter were not part of my original schedule. I decided to visit this place on a whim when my fellow travelers in Bosnia suggested it as an option. I took a detour to this wonderful country before heading to Croatia and I am so glad I visited this "one of a kind" country.
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