Visiting Montenegro was a last minute plan. I had a great time with friends I made in Mostar and I was in two minds whether to leave or not. As the bus ticket was already booked and I did not know the future plans of my new found friends, I decided to proceed with the Montenegro plan eventually. The last night in Bosnia was epic as we were out partying all night in the streets of Mostar and there was a real risk of missing the early morning bus ! Without any sleep, I was struggling to stay awake. At the bus stop, the cool morning air did its bit to rejuvenate me and I was thankful the bus was on time. After storing my backpack in the luggage hold and getting my ticket stamped, I chose an empty window seat to settle down and sleep. As I left Mostar, it started raining and I think it stayed that way for most parts - whenever I opened my eyes, all I could see was rains lashing the windows. After a couple of hours, I woke up and felt a lot better. There were some stunning views along the way but sadly, I could not capture it on camera because of the rain and the resultant misty windows. As I neared my destination, the weather cleared up a bit and the first view I got of the place was stunning. On one side, the imposing mountains defend Budva (and bring much needed showers) and on the other side, the massive Adriatic sea protects the beautiful town.
Montenegro is one of the smallest countries in Europe, covering less than 14,000 square kms. To put it into perspective, its area is less than 5% of India's biggest state - Uttar Pradesh. No wonder map makers find it so difficult to write the country's name in such a small space. This tiny country has often gone unnoticed when I used to look at the European map and plan (or dream) my travels.
It has been ruled by Byzantium, Serbia and the Ottomans. In the 1920s it was part of Yugoslavia and became independent in 2006. The country’s name translates as Black Mountain - some of Europe’s most rugged mountains are in Montenegro. Due to its climate, it is home to about 60 percent of all European bird species - a fact I found astonishing. How can such a small country have such a large proportion of the continent's bird species ?
Believe it or not, this is the main bus station - the old town is a 20 minutes walk from here.
The 2,500 year old town of Budva is known for its beautiful beaches, nightlife and stone walls which enclose the old town. My hostel was located bang in the middle of the old town which would allow me to roam its tiny streets late into the night without being too far from the hostel.
After I checked in and entered my room, there a nasty surprise waiting for me. My backpack had got wet during the bus journey - even as I wondered (and cursed) how the rainwater entered the luggage hold, I did not think about the fact that it might have seeped into the backpack as well. As I unpacked, I realized most of my clothes were soaking wet. Now, it was going to be a tough task finding places within the hostel where I could hang the clothes out to dry. Some of them were spread out near the bed in my room and some of them were out in the corridor. With a hope (and a prayer) that no one laid their hands on my football jerseys while I was out, I left the hostel to begin my exploration.
The old town is a very important cultural monument which holds many churches within its walls. Not to forget the Citadel, the town’s fortress on the rocky elevation. It has been destroyed and rebuilt several times over the years. Stone walls were built by the Venetians for the defense and fortification of the main centre. It feels like there is history in every nook and corner of this town.
The town walls were erected in late 15th century. The narrow, winding streets and small squares (called piazzetas) are a constant feature of Budva. I lost myself and enjoyed the sights and sounds. It was good to see that private ownership of the place by residents and shopkeepers has not spoiled the place, but actually enhanced its beauty a bit.
A big attraction on the Riviera of Budva is Sveti Stefan. This town-fortress was built by the gold stolen from attacks on the Turkish ships in the battle near Kotor - just imagine how much treasure there was on those Turkish ships that an entire fort could be built on an island. It was converted into a hotel-town 50 years ago and is frequented by the rich and famous (Claudia Schiffer and Sylvester Stallone among them).
There is also the Sveti Nikola island, which is also called Hawaii by locals.
The harbour has clear waters, despite the abundance of yachts and boats and it has lovely mountains to form a stunning background.
The bars and restaurants are so many - you could pick a different one every day. Montenegrin food has been influenced by Turkey, Italy and Hungary. Bread is served with every meal, and pastries filled with cheese or meat are the most popular fast food.
I reached an isolated part of the island and spent my evening there. The waves crashing into the building kept me entertained for a long time.
Budva is considered to be one of the oldest settlements on the Adriatic Coast, with the Illyrian tribe existing even around 500BC. It was colonized by the Greeks for several hundred years and the prosperity it enjoyed during this period made it an attractive takeover for the expansionist Romans, who ruled it till the late 5th century AD.
After the Romans, Budva was ruled by Byzantine emperors for till the middle of 9th century, when it was destroyed by Arabians, who attacked from the sea. In the late 12th century, the town fell to the Serbians who ruled it for almost 2 centuries. Budva was then taken by the Venetians who ruled it till the late 18th century. In the period of Venetian rule, a small shipyard was built for the construction of small ships for coastal purposes. Budva alternated between Austrian & French occupation till WWI, when it was liberated by Serbian & Montenegrin army. WWII saw them fight against the Fascists and in 1944, it was liberated on a permanent basis.
After this history lesson, it was time to go to the beach and enjoy the stillness of the place. I was lucky enough to spend a peaceful morning here without any crowds.
The entrance to the old town is through a small gate - there are shops which have some wonderful items worth shopping for. I spent most of the day roaming the streets like a wide eyed traveler, in love with everything !
As the clouds make an appearance over the mountains and the lights take effect, it feels like human eyes are keeping a watch on the streets.
The sunset was beautiful with the sky changing colors every few minutes. As evening turned into night, I decided to start my dinner hunt.
Late night strolls minus the crowd is always a pleasure and then, you get little gems like these - a restaurant beside a old historic church seems like a perfect place to have dinner.
Back in the hostel, I reflected on the last few day and could not believe my good luck. I had decided to visit Bosnia and Montenegro without much preparation and both these countries have shocked me with their natural beauty. I feel they should be on every traveller's bucket list. No surprise then that the country has been described as one of the 50 places to see in a lifetime by National Geographic.
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