Italy is breathtakingly beautiful and one of my favorite places on earth. Every city has a distinct characteristic and as I hopped around, I was constantly amazed at the treasures bestowed upon this wonderful land. While Rome overwhelmed me with its offerings, Venice had me floating in a fantasy island. Milan's Piazza del Duomo kept me hooked for hours & Pisa felt like realization of a long-held dream. Among all the Italian cities I visited, the one which shocked me with its beauty was Florence. It is stunning beyond words & feels like a painting.
After spending a few days in Rome, I decided to take an early morning bus to Florence. The empty metro stations provided a perfect opportunity for some rare photographs, possible only at this unearthly hour.
Even though I was sleepy, the beautiful Tuscany countryside ensured I did not doze off. Florence, capital of the Tuscany region, spreads on the banks of Arno & is located near the famous wine production area of Chianti.
Once off the bus and on my way to the hostel, the sights and sounds on the streets were a constant distraction -
Glad to dispose of my backpack at the hostel, it was time to take care of my next priority -
With a spring in my step, I move towards the city center. I have been a fan of European football for more than 15 years now and every time I see the football jerseys in the markets, it brings a smile to my face. Unfortunately, my visit was during the weekdays or else, I would have utilized the opportunity to attend a Fiorentina's (the local club) match in their beautiful stadium.
The foundation of Florence dates back to the Roman times, as it originated as one of Julius Caesar's colonies. Rectangular in plan and enclosed in a wall, the city was based at the confluence of two streams Arno and Mugnone which for the sake of defense. Like the other Roman cities, it is characterized by straight roads which crossed at right angles. The two main roads led to 4 towered gates and most of the important landmarks are built within walking distance of the city center. Firenze developed rapidly due to its economic power, as it was strategically located for the trade routes & the commercial activity taking place in the 1st & 2nd century BC.
My first stop, the Cathedral of Saint Maria del Fiore, is an absolute stunner and it can keep one glued for hours. The gothic architecture and the intricate carvings are a marvel. Along with Notre-Dame, Duomo di Milano and Cologne cathedral, this is right up there in my list of most beautiful cathedrals I have ever visited. Italian cities tried to outdo each other by war or constructing outrageously beautiful buildings, to prove they were richer or more powerful. Like other cathedrals, it is designed with 4 perpendicular arms so that the entire building has the shape of a cross, symbolizing the crucifixion of Christ. The bell tower and dome are incredible and give gorgeous views of the city.
The Gates of Paradise, in front of the cathedral, are bronze doors consisting of 10 panels depicting figures in various landscapes. The attention to detail and clarity is of such fine quality, that Michelangelo referred to these doors as fit to be Gates of Paradise. However, these gates are a copy of the originals, which were replaced in 1990 and placed in the Duomo's museum to protect them for the future. The gates also feature prominently in Dan Brown's novel Inferno.
I spent countless hours just wandering its streets and looking at the marvelous architecture. One of those places where my eyes were so fixated at the magnificent buildings that I forgot to focus on where I was walking. There was always this danger of bumping into people or developing a pain in the neck with all that "looking up".
There is lots of street art to admire along the way. The city is not so much a walking tour, but an education in history, architecture and art. It doesn't matter whether one is a novice or an expert in these fields, the city feels like an open museum which will delight your senses and leave you craving for more.
The Galleria dell'Accademia is an art museum, best known for Michelangelo's sculpture David. It also has other sculptures and paintings by Florentine artists. It is smaller than Uffizi Gallery, the main art museum of Florence. Uffizi is the most visited museum in Italy and one of the best known in the world. Its internal courtyard is so long, narrow and opens up to Arno at the far end - the first regularized streetscape of Europe.
The traditional trinity of the great masters of the Renaissance period - Leonardo da Vinci, Michelangelo and Raffaello - have contributed massively to the artistic atmosphere of the city. Many would probably regard Florence as a shrine they must visit to pay homage to these world famous artists. No wonder, many budding artists & students plant themselves near the gallery and start painting their masterpieces. Even for me who has zero talent in painting, the scene in front of my eyes was inspiring enough to try my hand at drawing a rough sketch. Of course, I did nothing of that sort as I did not want to embarrass myself. I was more than happy to assume the role of a mute spectator in awe of what was happening in front of his eyes !
Piazza della Signoria is the main square, which is focal point of origin and history of Florence. It is located near the Palazzo Vecchio (old palace) & Fountain of Neptune and holds a copy of Michelangelo's David statue. There is also a row of statues nearby, effectively an open-air sculpture gallery of antiques and Renaissance art.
After loitering under the hot sun for so long, the sight of an ice cream parlor was a sight for sore eyes. Venchi has one of the best ice creams in the city, with a wide choice of flavors. Their wall of chocolate is a big attraction and once inside, one is spoilt for choice.
This massive crane carrying out maintenance to the bell tower kept me engrossed for a few minutes.
The Basilica di Santa Croce, located close to the Duomo, is famous for being the burial place of illustrious Italians like Galileo, Machiavelli & Michelangelo, which has earned it the name "Temple of Italian Glories".
I moved from the historic town center towards Ponte Vecchio, a medieval stone closed arch bridge built over the river Arno. It connects the two sides of Florence and has shops built along the way. Initially, it was occupied by butchers, tanners and farmers but these days, jewellery shops, art dealers and souvenir stores dominate the scene.
Nearby are the Trinity bridge and Ponte alle Grazie, which was the only bridge not to have been swept away in the flood of 1333. Much of the rebuilding activity in and around the town center took place in the 14th century.
The other side of Firenze was a lot quieter and it was good to lose myself in those tiny streets, which hold some treasures of their own. I was lucky to discover an ancient art & music workshop, which kept me occupied for quite some time. Even though the stuff there was expensive, window shopping was a lot of fun.
The Piazzale Michelangelo is a square with a panoramic view of the city. It was built in 1869 on a hill south of the historic center, when Florence was capital of Italy. It has bronze copies of some of the works of Michelangelo, to whom the square is dedicated.
A perfect spot to bring food and drinks & sit on the stairs while watching the sun set behind the mountains.
It is tough to choose a place for dinner, with so many options available in the city. I go for Tuscan style pasta, complemented by fine Chianti wine. As a treat, the chef provides me limoncello and cookies "on the house". The day just kept getting better and better.
One of my favorite activities in Florence was to roam the streets at night, without the crowd. It is something I would recommend big time. The stillness, the silence, the tiny streets and historic buildings lit up by lamps is a different way of seeing Florence, which is impossible to witness during the day.
It was a day I will remember for a long long time. My brain and heart craved for more, but my eyes and legs wanted a rest - it was a case of "my mind writing checks which my body can't cash" ! I was quietly confident that I was one of the last people in Florence to turn in that day 😀
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