Venice is dreamlike. Anyone who has heard about the place or even better, spent a few days here knows that you can never free yourself from her. This floating city consists of a group of 117 small islands separated by canals and linked by bridges. It had been my dream destination for as long as I can remember. Italy had charmed me from the word go and even as I enjoyed the places I was visiting in this beautiful country, the one place I was really looking forward to was Venice.
I arrived here quite early in the morning when the city was shaking off its slumber. Flixbus dropped me out of city limits and as I got out of the bus, it looked nothing like the Venice I had seen in pictures. It took me a 30 minute walk towards the city centre and that's when the magic started to unfold. The early morning light is one of the best times to capture Venice and you have the added advantage of less crowds as well.
Venice is very confusing with its narrow streets and alleys. Quite often Google Maps also doesn't come to your rescue so it is a good idea to pay attention to the shape of buildings and bridges or remember some landmarks close to your hostel. You can also just ask for directions, but this doesn’t always mean you’re going to easily find your destination. My first brush with "getting lost in Venice" came on the first morning itself. Google Maps dropped me at a street near my hotel but I could not see any sign or board mentioning the place. So, I walked around in circles for quite some time before I found my place in the lane next to the location shown on Maps. It should have been my first lesson but I ignored it and got lost quite a few times during my trip. Even though I ended up discovering some beautiful places off the beaten track, the feeling of being "hopelessly lost" was different and more acute in Venice, especially at night - "Where the Hell Am I?".
As I was way too early for check-in, I dropped my backpack at the hotel and left to explore the city. Unraveling its mysteries can teach you the story of how a swampy lagoon, inhabited first by a group of refugees turned fishermen, was transformed into one of the richest trading powers in the world. Within this labyrinth of narrow bridges, cramped courtyards, twisting canals and shuttered squares, is a living, breathing city, ideal for a short break. It can be the most romantic place on earth, but it can also be terribly expensive and touristy if you don’t do your research.
Venice’s attractions are so many that you would need more than a few days to see it all. Even though it’s a relatively small town, it is packed with sites that are completely unique, even compared to many other Italian cities. The main attractions are pretty much concentrated around Saint Mark’s Square. And the reason is obvious - it was the political, religious, financial, and social center of the city, a thousand years ago. The square was where people of importance did their business.
Piazza San Marco is the most crowded public square and one of the most happening places to visit in Venice, located in front of St. Mark’s Basilica and Doge’s Palace. This is the place where all the government buildings and other offices are located in Venice. The best time to visit is in the evening when the cruise passengers are gone, or in the early morning when the buzzing tourist-crowds haven’t yet arrived. Just stroll along passing the many jewelry shops and cafes. It’s also the lowest part of Venice. At high tide, the part of the square in front of the Basilica starts to get flooded as it happened in 2019 - luckily for me, after my visit.
The St Mark’s Basilica was the very first church built here, to house the bones of Saint Mark, stolen from Egypt at that time. The church was burnt down in a rebellion more than 1000 years ago but was soon reconstructed. Through a couple of fires and subsequent restorations, the current basilica was more or less completed in the 13th century.
Right next to the Basilica is the Doge’s Palace. During the early days, it was the Seat of Government. Its marvelous decor and Gothic architecture are worth admiring.
And then, there is the Bell tower which stands out like a candle in the birthday cake. It is the highest building in Venice (99 meters) and the fourth highest Bell tower in all of Italy. In the old days, no building or tower in Venice could be higher than the Tower of Saint Mark’s. It was first built as a lighthouse for the ships but during the centuries it was slowly transformed into a Bell tower.
The views from the top of the tower (€8 entry) are stunning - it should be part of every "to do" list in Venice.
Close to the entrance of the Basilica is the clock tower. This extraordinary clock is in function from the second half of 1400 and is still working. There’s a very complex and interesting mechanism that brings out a procession of three wise men, Virgin Mary and the archangel sounding a horn.
On the top floor, there are two bronze figures hitting the Bell with hammers. These are commonly referred to as the Moors because of their dark color. An interesting fact is that the old moor, with the beard, strikes the two minutes before the hour, while the young one, without the beard, strikes the hour. It is a symbol of the time that has the past and the present.
Canal Grande is the most picture postcard of places. It is lined with gorgeous & vibrant looking palaces & castles on both sides. It meanders through the city in a zigzag way with a few breathtaking bridges built over it. It is a good place to visit at night or to enjoy the stunning sunset.
The gondola rides are a must do, even though they don't come cheap.
And, of course, remember to have lots of Pizzas, Pastas & Gelato -
After enjoying some delicious Italian food, it was time to move on to the next destination. The Rialto Bridge was built in the 16th century and it was the only bridge over Canal Grande in Venice until the 19th century. The reason to connect the two islands at that point was because the food marked was located at Rialto & the Venetians needed their fruit, vegetables, fish, and meat every day.
It has an interesting background story. The need to join the banks of the canal to make the Rialto market more accessible led to the construction of a simple bridge of boats. It was a floating bridge and by no means ideal, as it blocked the traffic on the canal. The name Quartarolo came from the fee the pedestrians had to pay for the crossing. Later, a wooden bridge was made but it was severely damaged during a rebellion when the revolutionaries tried to burn it so as to prevent the guards from following them. It was rebuilt soon after and stood the test of time for many decades. After much planning, a stone bridge was built in the late 16th century which would be stronger, last longer and resist fire.
Day 1 was spent visiting the above main landmarks, Day 2 was spent visiting the twin islands of Murano & Burano whereas Day 3 was spent visiting other famous places in Venice. The Opera house in Venice is called The Phoenix, a perfect name for the theatre which was rebuilt after being burnt down to the ground two times - like the mythical bird that rises from the ashes. One of the museums maintained by the Venetian authority is Ca’Rezzonico, located on the banks of the Grand Canal which houses outstanding collections of paintings and sculptures. The church of Madonna & Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari are gorgeous - definitely worth your time & attention.
In Venice, I feel that every corner, every palace, every chapel has stories to tell. And between them there are the houses, the calli, the bridges where the everyday life went on, where the people lived, and still live. There are secrets waiting to be discovered on a regular basis. I recommend getting lost in its streets & alleys finding a story of your own. The fact that you might just end up in some delightful cafes & shops is an added bonus.
I was glad to spend some beautiful moments with Gabija, a girl from Lithuania, who was on her first trip to Venice, like me. We explored a bit of the city together, enjoyed a stunning sunset and had a wonderful conversation over dinner. It's always nice to meet and discuss stuff with people, which gives you a wider perspective about the world and life, in general. Traveling has given me valuable life lessons - I hope I am always ready to take notes as and when I get the opportunity. I wish I could have spent more time with her but it was not meant to be.
However, the trickiest part was reserved for the end. After I dropped her at the hotel, I lost my way completely (not for the first time!). When I could not make any leeway after a few attempts (no data connection, so Maps were useless), I swallowed my pride and asked a few people the correct route to St. Mark's Square (first pit stop, from which I planned to retrace my steps back to my hotel). Even as my anxiety grew with each wrong step, I couldn't help but admire Venice in the night lights without any crowds. It was hauntingly beautiful, which needs to be appreciated leisurely. Anyways, after I reached St. Mark's Square, I was quietly confident of finding my way back. There were a few diversions and wrong routes taken even after that. However, a couple of dead ends and recognition of a landmark building close to my hotel proved decisive in my quest to find my resting place for the night. After a wild goose chase, I was back home for a much deserved shut-eye.
Another fascinating aspect about Venice is the mystery and the legends that lurk in the shadows. Through the years, the stories have been told from neighbor to neighbor, and from father to son. Many of these are just that - stories, myths, and legends. But a few of them are true or at least have a seed of truth within them.
One of the spookiest places here is Poveglia, an island close to Venice. It’s a forbidden piece of land & off-limits for good reason. Not that any locals ever go there, but lately foreigners in search of a good story as well as journalists and TV people have come to investigate - Fox channel called it an Island of No Return. Its association with death began because many people were sent there to die during the Black Plague. In fact, it was in Venice that the first-ever quarantine was invented. Quaranta is the Italian word for 40, and that’s how many days the newly arrived had to stay isolated before he was let into the city. The stories, telling about strange noises, movements in the shadows, flickering lights and dark entities are as many as the people who are supposed to have died there.
Then, there is the story of the cursed palace. Its ownership has changed multiple times over the last few centuries and the owners have suffered one misfortune after another in their lives. Nowadays, it stands empty and silent - off limits after dark! There are stories about the Devil's bridge in Torcello & a dark history about the construction of the Rialto Bridge. Some of these stories are true, some not quite! Whatever one may believe, it sure adds a lot of mystery and context to the places I visited.
Venice is Magical - it is a place one needs to definitely visit in their lifetime. You may leave Venice, but Venice will never leave you. Even after you go away, she keeps her grip firmly around you. All you wish is one day, you get a chance to go back to this magical place.
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