Cinque Terre ("Five Lands") is a fabulous collection of five fishing villages in Northern Italy - in short, the "Fab Five". The Italian Riviera is well known for its stunning coastline and romantic villages and it had always been an integral part of my Italian itinerary. Despite years of exposure to colourful photographs of the Riviera on the internet and having an idea what to expect, this place still blew my mind and I will always recall Cinque Terre with a lot of fondness.
I left Florence in the early hours of the morning and having this beautiful city's streets all to myself is a good enough reward for waking up at 4am. Resisting the temptation to explore a little bit of the quieter Firenze, I made my way to the train station.
I changed trains at Pisa and arrived at Levanto, as the sun was climbing up the horizon. It is better to buy the Cinque Terre card (€16 daily pass), which covers all train travel between Levanto and La Spezia. It has to be stamped at the stamping machines before the first train ride.
The five villages (Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, Riomaggiore) are no longer the isolated hamlets they once were, but it still retains a degree of authenticity with few roads, eye catching architecture and isolated trails in the mountains. The trekking trail is 11kms and if all the sections are open, it can be done within 5-6 hours.
The first village I hit is Monterosso (20 minutes by train from La Spezia) and it is the only village with a proper beach.
The 7km Blue Trail from Monterosso to Corniglia is not difficult and the high, forested path offers some spectacular coastal scenery. It is better to have your hiking shoes on before taking the trail, or else you could get fined up to €2500 for breaking the rules. It is very early for the sun bathers and I have the entire beach almost to myself. The azure color of the water makes one want to take a dip and forget the world.
After spending some time here, I head towards the market as the shops start opening their shutters. Famous for its lemon trees, I was on the lookout for some lemonade to quench my thirst. After the sea blue color at the beach, it was time to adjust my eyes to a riot of colors. The old town is dominated by ruins of the castle and medieval streets, whereas the new town is the touristy one with many hotels and restaurants. After a quick breather in a beautiful little church, I move to the next village.
Vernazza. with its little harbour, is the setting for many a photo shoots.
While strolling in the market, I followed a few people going into a restricted cove and was rewarded with this view. It was the perfect place for a private beach party. However, I did not linger there for long and made my way towards the Piazza Marconi. Its sea facing motley of colorful houses draws the oohs and aahs instantaneously. The village's caruggi (narrow lanes) descend almost vertically towards the harbour through a flight of stairs and terraces, each opening out towards the vast blue sea.
Vernazza grew a small fortified village with a strong defense against the invading pirates. Boasting the only natural port in Cinque Terre, it has quite a few boats tied up next to the houses, catering to the tourists who are looking for a day out in the sea.
After the visual feast, it was time to sample the local cuisine and the multiple dining options leave you spoiled for choice. The village is surrounded by steeply-terraced olive groves and the olive oil they produce is among the finest in Italy. My taste buds soar as I sample some delicious Italian cuisine. I fell in love with Cannoli - it would be foolish to miss this opportunity to indulge my sweet tooth, before moving on to the next village.
Corniglia is located in the middle of Cinque Terre, the only village without access from the sea.
The village is a 20 minute walk through 377 steep steps (known as Lardarina) winding from a rocky cove and its waterfront station.
Perhaps one of the older villages, it is famous for its vineyards. The excavation in Pompeii found clay containers for wine and oil labelled "gens Cornelia" and there could not be a better historical proof of its wine being famous all over Italy - not that I needed any ! Compared to the other villages, it had an authentic feel to it and there were more instances of locals going about their normal lives, without any care for the tourists.
Its quiet streets lead to a broad, breezy sea-facing terrace, the only place from where you can look at (and photograph) all the five villages at once. After enjoying these views for a long time, I made my way to the next village.
Manarola, built on a high rock, is a very charming village with stunning views of the harbor and multicolored houses facing the sea.
The village is all ups and downs leading to the sea, whereas the top of Manarola has a church with panoramic views. Its bell tower was used as a post to watch out for pirate raids. After all this walking, I had to take a break - the lemonade & garlic bread was too good to be true.
This hidden village is surrounded by picturesque terrace farming, which produces one of the finest wines in the region. Agriculture and fishing go hand in hand for these villagers. In December and January, the hills are illuminated with around 15,000 lamps and 300 figures (7 miles of electric cables) for the biggest lighted nativity in the world. I can only imagine what a "once in a life time" sight it would be ! While using the tunnel to the station for making my way to the last village, I realized my day is drawing to a close. I could not help but feel a tinge of sadness, I did not want the day to end !
Riomaggiore is the southernmost village, known for its characteristic tower homes built along the sea. It is the largest of the 5 villages.
It is advisable to visit during sunset, as it is the best time to capture the beauty of the colorful buildings. Rumored to have origins in the 8th century, its mild climate was perfect for the early inhabitants to raise grapevines and olive trees. Here starts the Lover's Lane to Manarola - as the name suggests, it is a path famous for the romantic atmosphere and amazing landscapes.
After sunset, it was time to explore the streets & roam around aimlessly. As darkness fell, I took my last "tunnel walk" and with a heavy heart, bid goodbye to this most magical of places.
For me, Cinque Terre was the biggest surprise package during the Italian sojourn. The cities of Rome, Florence, Venice, Pisa etc. were the obvious ones to make up my "Italian list". Even though I had been exposed to what to expect from these cities, I have been amazed by each and every one of them. Cinque Terre was something different, as its sheer beauty hits you hard & you do not feel like leaving the place. They offer a unique insight into the traditions, landscapes and culture of coastal Italy. Though similar in many respects, every one of these little "lands" has a different personality and its own story to tell, if you are willing to spend some time and listen !
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