Samuil's Fortress is just incredible. It dominates the skyline of the little town and as the capital of the first Bulgarian empire, it is one landmark which has both history and location going for it. It is considered one of the largest preserved fortifications in Macedonia.
The fortress was first mentioned in the 3rd century BC but the present form of the fortress dates from Tsar Samuil’s time (997-1014 AD). Until the 15th century, the population lived within the city walls.
Throughout history, the fortress has been destroyed many times, rebuilt and upgraded, so that it bears marks of all its rulers - Romans, Byzantines, Slavs and Ottoman Turks. The fortress has three gates - upper gate close to the ancient theatre, main gate which is close to a church and the lower gate very close to the lake. The views of the historic old-town Ohrid, newer Ohrid and Lake Ohrid are just breathtaking. I was fortunate to spend one glorious evening here.
It is protected by high walls and watch towers on three sides and on the southern side, it has the lake. I can very well imagine the king and soldiers imagining themselves to be unbeatable, sitting on high ground and having a view of anything coming towards them by sea or land.
Tsar Samuil is not only a historical figure as his nationality is a touchy topic for Bulgarians & Macedonians. The belief in Macedonia is inspired by the propaganda of Tito’s communist Yugoslavia, which claims that he was the head of a Macedonian empire extending from the Black Sea to the Adriatic, where Ohrid played a crucial role. It is part of the bigger picture where Macedonians believe that they have long been a separate nationality with their own distinct language and history.
However, Bulgarians believe that the Tsar Samuil used the word Bulgarian to describe himself and his kingdom. It is part of the popular belief in Bulgaria that Macedonians are in fact Bulgarians by origin. While Bulgaria recognized the existence of a Macedonian state in 1991, it has still not confirmed the existence of a Macedonian identity or a Macedonian language, which is believed to be a dialect of Bulgarian.
This tug of war will continue for a long time but the historical part remains disputed. Tsar Samuil was known as a great strategist, having won many victories and thus expanding the Bulgarian empire (including current-day Greece & the Balkans). However, in 1014, the Bulgarians were defeated by the Byzantines. According to legend, following the capture of the Bulgarian army, the Byzantine commander had 99 out of every 100 men blinded, with the remaining hundredth man left with one eye so as to lead his compatriots home. It is claimed that when Tsar Samuil saw the broken remains of his army, he suffered a heart attack & died. His reign coincides with the end of the First Bulgarian empire.
You can very well transport yourself into the medieval times, imagining how the town used to function and during times of war, how the fighting would have taken place.
You can also see the flights take off and land at the Ohrid airport. The colors of the sky and lake change every few minutes, at this time of the day. It is advisable to arrive here around 4pm which would give you enough time to explore the fort and then enjoy the incredible evening hours in peace. I am pretty sure the attendants have a tough time trying to make sure everyone are out of the fort before they closed the gates everyday. The sight of the sun setting behind the mountains with the lake in the foreground, is something to behold. The calm waters of the lake glistening in the evening light gladdens your heart no end. The setting couldn't be any better and it is almost impossible to look away until the nature show is complete.
The perfect place to spend the evening when you are in Ohrid !
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