Romania's capital Bucharest is also known as "Little Paris". Since Romanians take pride in anything French, it is no surprise that so many of their buildings are a replica of French architecture. I began the Free City Walking tour (recommended by my hostel) at Biserica Sfantul Anton, one of the oldest churches in Romania.
Opposite the church is Hanu Lui Manuc, one of the oldest inns in Europe and a historic one at that. Built by a rich Armenian merchant about 200 years ago, it provided lodging and shelter for the caravans on their trade routes. It has also been the location for so many historical important events like the peace treaty that ended the Russo-Turkish war in 1812. It is good to see that it has been tastefully renovated. Now, the place serves traditional Romanian food and holds local events as well. If only, they had more veg options!
The architecture is a mix of medieval, communist and modern. There are too many churches and every one of them has a significance of its own.
Pasajul Macca-Vilacrosse is a beautiful yellow glass covered street in old town, lined by cafes and small shops. It looks stunning and is a pleasure to walk through.
Stavropoleos is a beautiful historic church in the Old City with beautifully carved doors and windows.
The name “Bucharest” appeared for the first time in the mid 15th century. Vlad “the Impaler”, better known as Count Dracula Lord of Wallachia, built the fortress to defend his territory from Ottomans.
Believe it or not, it's an old currency note & not a postal stamp - a souvenir worth collecting.
St. Nicholas is a beautiful Russian church, located in central Bucharest.
The historic University square is full of architectural wonders and was the venue for the famous 1989 Romanian revolution.
The Romanian Revolution took place during December 1989. It started in the city of Timisoara and soon spread throughout the country, ultimately ending with the execution of the country's communist leader Nicolae Ceausescu and his wife Elena. It marked the end of 42 years of Communist rule in Romania.
I really loved this map on the floor of a metro station, which showed Wallachia, Transylvania and Moldova regions of Romania. I completely lost myself in the map and had to run a fair distance to rejoin the tour.
The famous statue of Capitoline Wolf, the symbol of the founding of Rome, was a gift from the city of Rome to Bucharest in 1906.
Street side cafes and restaurants are the norm - it was tough to choose the right place to have lunch.
But, the one place which was not difficult to choose was the fountains at Unirii Square. It was always fun to spend time here - morning, evening or night.
It is best to visit here during sunset or at night, when the lights add a different dimension altogether.
I had dinner at an old town pub while watching the Romanian football team win a Euro qualifier. My kind of an evening - football on telly, good food and a bunch of fans for company!
I continued my city tour the next day after breakfast. The first stop was the massive parliament, among the world's biggest buildings. It is a 12-story building (1100 rooms) built by the dictator Ceausescu, who wanted it to be the largest building in the world after the Pentagon. Just standing in front of it and admiring its gigantic size would be a thing that you won't forget in a hurry.
The Dambovita river that flows through the center of the city is probably one of the most nondescript rivers in Europe. In many European cities (like Paris), the rivers and the bridges look stunning and they are famous for being a romantic hotspot. But here, the romance and proposals are better done in Cismigiu gardens, the largest and oldest park in the city.
As I was taking in the sights and sounds, I turn a corner and Boom! I see the sky full of color. Light filtered down through row after row of perfectly positioned rainbow umbrellas. I had entered a beautiful umbrella street and what's more there was a pizzeria in the alleyway too, so one can sit outside right under the umbrellas and enjoy a pizza!
From here, I went to the Romanian Athenaeum. This concert hall is one of the most photographed buildings in Bucharest and I can see why. It's absolutely stunning inside and out. Many people visit to just sit outside in the grass like a mini park. The George Enescu (most famous musician of Romania) festival was underway and I had a great time listening to some wonderful performances.
Many of the famous buildings here have been converted into hotels or administrative offices. The old residential buildings are another story as some of them are close to crumbling but since the residents don't have any other option, they continue to live there.
The Memorial of Rebirth is a symbol of the struggles of Romanian revolution in 1989 - a pillar reaching for the sky and piercing the crown (of the dictator). Locals who do not like the design of the memorial, however, compare it to a mashed potato and the red color (symbolic of blood) is compared to be ketchup on a potato!
The "church vs hotel battle" - the story goes that the church authorities filed a case against the hotel chain for starting construction so close to the church. The case continued for years, as did the construction. Just before the hotel opened its doors, the court ruled in the church's favour. The hotel never opened and the tall building stands as a massive waste of money and a symbol of how some things work in this part of the world.
Bucharest offers a treasure trove for craft beer fanatics and is well known for its beer gardens and energetic nightlife. Once the sun sets, this dynamic city transforms and offers opportunities to suit all tastes and preferences.
The placinta and strudels from bakeries (a common sight) are a must have. They were my snack items any time of day. I loved having the pastries and cheese pies on the go, as I explored the city's streets.
I was fortunate to meet a Brazilian couple thrice in three different cities - Sofia, Bucharest & Brasov. They had taken a break for 6 months and were traveling in Europe & Asia before they returned home & decided what to do in life. We had made no plans to meet as such, but were pleasantly surprised when we ended up taking the same walking tour in these 3 cities. To commemorate our unexpected meetings, we decided to go to Caru cu bere on our last night together. With a history of more than 130 years, it was and is a symbol of Bucharest’s old town. It is a favourite meeting spot for the locals and tourists alike. Their menu is in the form of a newspaper and we loved the food there. The best was reserved for the last - Papanasi, a killer bomb of calories. These huge donuts topped up with cream, jam & berries are too much for one person & it was good to have company for finishing this lip smacking dessert.
As we parted and went our different ways, I reflected on the wonderful days I had spent in Bucaresti. It is a city that tells a story without saying a word, a city that lets its structures narrate a troubled history. It feels like a place which is caught between the past, the present, and the near future. The only thing travelers need to do is open their senses and experience the wonderful stories that keep pouring out of Bucharest.
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