Located 30kms from Mostar, Pocitelj was built in the Karst mountains of the Neretva river valley. Probably erected in the 14th century by the Bosnian king Tvrtko I, the earliest mention of this place is found in the royal documents of Naples & Vienna. The fortress on top of a hill gives scenic views of the region in all directions.
The drive here from Mostar is quite scenic & passes through acres and acres of vineyards. Bosnia does not produce a significant quantity of wine & most of its vineyards are located in this region between the Adriatic coast and Mostar. These are planted predominantly with Zilavka, known for its high potential alcohol but a black grape variety called Blatina is also used. The local black wine is quite famous here & I was shocked to discover the same as I had never heard anything about black wine !
Situated on the banks of river Neretva, it is a little peek into the rural way of life. The villagers sell local handmade stuff to tourists on the streets, which is their main source of income.
As you keep climbing, the pathways become more and more beautiful. The old houses retain a degree of originality but most of them have been refurbished over the years.
When the Ottomans conquered Bosnia in 1463, Pocitelj became an important strategic defense foothold. The head of a coalition against Ottomans was a Hungarian & Croatian king Matthias, who began to fortify the town and enlarge the town walls and towers.
But, all such efforts proved fruitless as the town fell to the Ottomans in 1471. Losing its strategic importance, it became a Oriental settlement with a division between the residential and economic zones. The latter one emerges close to the river while the natural one was created in a natural amphitheatrical slope. The Ottomans allowed people to settle here and take part in barter transactions at the base of the fort - it became important in a business perspective as well.
It was after the Venetian conquest in late 17th century that the fort regained its strategic importance and it reached its maximum, in terms of building and occupation. With the Austrian arrival, its significance declined sharply and the population abandoned it gradually. With the construction of a modern road (M17) in the valley of Neretva river, Pocitelj got a revival by chance, not by design.
There is a mosque within the fortified village, which serves as a reminder of its Ottoman occupation. The hammam & the watch tower were also built under their rule.
The fort was damaged extensively in the war with Serbia between 1992-1995. The government is trying to take care of this fort with whatever funds are available.
The place is a mix of ruins and new construction. The ruins look stunning and I was mesmerized by the beauty of the fort.
The stairs to the top of the tower can just about fit one person at a time. From the tower, the views are great and my eyes struggle to absorb the valley's outstanding beauty. My mind keeps wandering to how things would have been 500-600 years back.
There are pomegranate trees in abundance, but the fruits are not ripe enough to eat.
While walking through this pathway, an animal (possibly a cat) really gave me a shock with its creepy calls and I could not even place where it was coming from.
I had my guard on and for a while, I felt like a cornered cat myself. That was until I found this lovely art gallery amidst the ruins. After spending some time here, I made my way down to the parking area.
Most locals depend on the tourism revenues, as it is their major source of income. The fort has become a prominent tourist spot after the government started repairing the place. Hopefully, the local public can make some money out of it, as they can really use it to improve their way of life.
It takes around 2-3 hours to slowly go through the entire area. Food & water is available only at the base of the fortress. If you are in Mostar, it is a must visit considering the beauty and history of the place.
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