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Writer's pictureGanesh

Monaco & Nice

Monaco may be the world’s second tiniest country (the Vatican is the smallest), but that doesn’t stop it from being a great place to visit. It is situated at the base of Maritime Alps along the French Riviera and has been ruled by the Grimaldi family since the 13th century. A gambling 'mecca', Monaco is the playground of choice for the rich and famous.

I first heard about the place while watching the Formula 1 Grand Prix that takes place on a track running right through the heart of the city of Monte Carlo. This city is well known for its large casino, the setting for some Hollywood films, and also for its beaches and fashion shows, yachts and luxury cars parked everywhere. I had been itching to visit the city every time I landed in France but my plans never succeeded. So, when I made Europe my base for 3 months, there was no way a trip to Monaco wouldn't materialize, sooner or later. My initial idea was to spend 3-4 days here but due to a sudden change in plans (to visit a friend in Germany), I got only 1 day in Monaco. Even that required long haul bus journeys, one of which almost left me stranded in Italy (check the link - Flixbus debacle in Italy (wixsite.com)). So, when I arrived in Monaco around 4am, I was tired, sleepy and didn't have a clue what to do or where to go - the bus station was far away from the city and it seemed that the entire place was under lockdown. This was not the welcome I expected from a place which had been on my bucket list for quite some time. My first couple of attempts to find a train station or bus stop (so that I could reach Monaco) were unsuccessful and without an internet connection, I was at a loss. I went to a park and rested a bit, waiting for daylight so that I could get my bearings right. After an hour or so, I could see a few people out on the streets and I decided to ask them the best way to reach Monaco. By the time I came out of the park, the street was almost empty and I could just about see a couple of figures walking in the distance. On a whim, I decided to follow them rather than waste my time in the park and after 15-20 minutes of tailing them, I struck gold - a Train Station! My job was still not done though. At this unearthly hour, there were no staff or attendants in the station and I could not find any public either, who could help me with the information. Luckily for me, I found a booking kiosk, which had instructions in English. Without knowing my location or station, I just booked a ticket to Monaco and headed upstairs to the platform. After ensuring that I was on the right platform, I relaxed a bit and waited for my ride. The train, when it arrived, was surprisingly full and I had a tough time keeping my backpack away from the faces of my fellow passengers. I found it surprising that the stations were eerily empty but the trains were so full - I wonder where all these people were going!

As I was leaving Monaco the same day, I had not booked a hostel and the backpack was a constant companion today (I could not find a locker room in the station). It was one of those rare days where my walking would be governed by how much fuel I had left in the tank, as I needed to find suitable places to relax and rest my aching shoulders and tired legs. All that was forgotten for the moment, when I got out of the station. I landed bang in the middle of the F1 race track - finally, I had reached the promised land!

As it was a few minutes to sunrise, I decided to find a vantage point to view the first rays of light over the Mediterranean sea. With my heavy backpack, it was tough going for a while as I had to gain some height to get a good view. But, when I saw a viewpoint (close to a Casino, what else) with a bench, I decided enough was enough - I parked myself there and got some much needed rest. The sunrise was breathtaking and I basked in all its glory.

The history of Monaco is interesting, to say the least. It was ruled for a long time by the Romans and in 1162, when it was granted to the republic of Genoa, there were street battles between the warring parties (Emperor vs Pope). The forces loyal to the emperor built a castle on the Rock of Monaco in 1215 to assert their authority. In the late 13th century, Guelph Grimaldi disguised himself as a monk to enter the castle and captured it. The ruling dynasty holds power to this day. The Grimaldis conducted pirate-style raids on English towns with the help of French and fought off many attacks from Genoa & Spain. To stave off any potential threats, it has remained under the protection of France for the last 400 years.

Its more recent history laid the grounds for the modern day Monaco. By the 1850s, Monaco's reigning family was almost bankrupt due to the loss of two towns, which had provided most of their revenues with their lemon, orange and olive crops. At the time, a number of small towns in Europe were growing prosperous from the establishment of casinos, notably in Germany. So, in 1856, the monarchy in Monaco granted a concession to establish a sea-bathing facility for the treatment of various diseases, and to build a German-style casino. The initial casino was unsuccessful because Monaco was inaccessible from much of Europe. However, the railway, installed in 1868, brought with it an influx of people, and Monte Carlo grew in wealth.

What I didn't know and found surprising was that Monaco's casinos welcome only tourists and foreigners. In order to protect its citizens from gambling addiction, Monaco’s authorities banned them from gambling or working in the casino. In return, the citizens of Monaco were granted tax-exempt status. The rule continues to this day! The history of the Casino de Monte-Carlo is also marked by wild wins and crushing losses. In 1974, an unknown Italian gambler won big in roulette and took home $1,092,000. He still remains the biggest winner in the history of Monaco’s casino. Another legendary winner was Charles Wells who broke the bank of the casino six times in three days. Every time he lost, he doubled his next bet. This strategy helped him to win at each table he played. He was an inspiration for a popular British song “The man who broke the bank at Monte Carlo” as well. Well, I was here only to roam and not partake in any gambling activities. The attractions worth visiting are Opera House, Oceanographic Museum, Prince's Palace and the Monte Carlo Casino (of course!). After a tour of the race track, I made my way towards Nice.

It is easy to understand why people are drawn to Nice. With its sunny weather and stunning seaside scenery, this picturesque city resembles a painting. Surrounded by the serene blue waters of the Baie des Anges (Bay of Angels) and sheltered by the foothills of the Maritime Alps, Nice is a stunner alright. From wandering the quaint cobblestone streets to strolling the famous Promenade des Anglais, the joys of spending time in this beautiful city are endless.

The city was originally discovered in the 1820s by British aristocrats as a winter resort. Today, it is still a popular vacation destination. Considered the center of the French Riviera, Nice is the perfect starting point to explore the dazzling Cote d'Azur coastline. The Promenade des Anglais is a gorgeous pedestrian area that follows the curve of the Baie des Anges beaches. This legendary seaside road is lined with planted palm trees and filled with elegant gardens.

Nice is a place to enjoy life, to take in the beauty of the gardens and the sea, and to soak up the vibrant Mediterranean energy. The city has a distinctive Italian character that's especially visible in the Old Town. I had heard so much about the French Riviera and looking at it from close quarters, I could understand the pull behind the region and why it is a magnet for the tourists.

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