Gandikota had been on my bucket list for a long time. I found out about this place by accident when I was looking at places to visit in the southern part of India. I was stunned when I looked at the photos and wondered how come I was not aware about of such a beautiful place. For quite some time, my plans to visit the area didn't materialize and I kept waiting for that elusive opportunity. During my last trip to Andhra Pradesh, I got lucky. When my work in Vijayawada finished early and I got the weekend off, there was only one place on my mind - Gandikota!
It is located near the river Pennar in the Kadapa district. To reach here, you need to come to Prodattur or Jammalamadugu. I reached Jammalamadugu by 6am, only to realize that there were only 3 buses going to Gandikota every day (0530, 0930, 1330). Since I had missed the 05:30 bus, there was only one option remaining - hiring an autorickshaw. They charge Rs. 30/- per person but as there was no one else going that way, I negotiated with a driver who would charge Rs. 250/- for the pickup & drop.
The 15km auto ride was very good and it was like travelling to some 'middle of nowhere' place. All I could see was land, land & more land. The distant mountains & windmills stood out prominently in this bizarre landscape. All this while, I was hoping to see some outline of a fort or the canyons but during my ride, there was no clue or hint whatsoever that I was visiting this one-of-a-kind place. A kilometer or so from the fort, I could make out the rough outline of the main wall of the fort and when I saw this sign ("Hampi" misspelled as "Humpy"), I decided it was time to get out of the rickshaw and explore the area by foot.
I guess it is a place frequented only by travelers in AP or Telangana and at 6:30 in the morning, there was not a soul around (except for the people who stay in the houses inside the fort). While exploring the outer walls, I could catch a glimpse of the river Pennar in the distance. The are is popular for the spectacular gorges formed by the river cutting through Erramala Hills.
The Gandikota Fort was built in the 13th Century and it got its name because of the gorge (locally called gandi). The village transformed into a major fort after the emergence of the Kamma kings, who ruled Gandikota for more than 200 years. Built in red sandstone, the fort boasts of beautiful, intricate carvings in the interior. In addition to a granary, jail and ruins of some temples, there are several structures within the fort that you can visit. The outer wall looks imposing and some of the structures or walls inside the fort are in ruins, but in a way, it just adds to the beauty.
The beautiful mosque situated within the premises called the Jamia Masjid, has a beautiful architecture, similar to that of the Charminar mosque in Hyderabad. Without anyone around, I was glad to click lots of photos without anyone spoiling the frame. There are no shops or places to stay within the fort, but you can find villagers selling some stuff & water.
This is the extreme point close to the Jama Masjid where you can get a stunning view of the gorge with the river beneath you. There was no water in the river though, as I went before the monsoon season had actually kicked in. I was transfixed by the place and stayed there for more than an hour or so soaking in the views and wondering how life would have been in the ancient times at Gandikota.
The fort's location gives it a massive advantage to defend itself from the raiding armies wishing to capture the fort. Apart from Jama Masjid, there are two ancient temples as well, which inspire awe when you first look at them. Raghunathaswamy Temple houses no idols but has airy corridors and is flanked by an array of towering pillars.
Madhavaraya Temple, on the other hand, has several idols and is a masterpiece of the olden day architecture. Boasting of several sculptures, it is like an open air exhibition. There are some wonderful inscriptions, which have withstood the test of time.
There is also a large granary, a pigeon tower and other ancient structures in different stages of decay. The temple is also a favourite spot for the tourists in addition to the locals who come here to pray. The government run Haritha Resort (10 rooms) is the only option for overnight stay in Gandikota. There are multiple camping areas outside the Fort and on the banks of the Pennar River for those who are looking for quirky stay options.
At this point, I had an amusing encounter which resulted in me taking a wrong turn. For some reason, a buffalo charged towards me and I had to seek protection on higher ground, which I did by climbing the fort walls.
Apart from this incident, I had a wonderful time exploring the fort and the cool weather made the excursion a walk in the park. Known to few ardent travelers, Gandikota is not the usual tourist hub as it is neither a world heritage site, nor is it marketed well by state tourism agencies. This untouched and unexplored place is worth a visit for history buffs as well as nature lovers.
After visiting all the structures, it was time to head towards the viewpoint which has made this place so famous and earned itself the nickname "The Grand Canyon of India". For this, I had to get to the extreme corner of the fort and a guy from Hyderabad joined me in my quest.
The fort is built in such a way that the gorge provides a natural defense on its west and north sides. There is a route which leads you further into the hills and also, you can go down to the river from here. There are sweeping views of the hills & valleys - it was the perfect place to take a breather and finish my lunch.
One can also visit Mylavaram Dam nearby and do some boating in the serene waters of the reservoir. However, I combined my visit with a trip to the nearby Belum caves. After spending a long time here admiring the views, it was time to head back to base. As the auto driver took me back to Jammalamadugu, nothing could wipe the smile off my face. All this while, I was thinking how things often work out in the end. I had been trying to visit this place for a few years now but none of my plans worked out. When I actually made the trip, there was no inkling of a plan even a couple of days before my visit. Often, the best trips happen when you don't have any plans.
Comments