I was really psyched about this cycling trip. Cycling the highest motorable road in the world, the Khardung La pass (5,359m) was one of the many highlights of my Ladakh trip.
The plan was simple. We would be driven up to the pass with other riders from Leh to Khardung La covering 40km and we would roll down back at our own pace whenever we were ready. All the bicycles were tied to the roof of the car and we took the morning ride to the top.
All set and ready to go !
It was cold and windy but in the excitement, I was not thinking of the conditions I would have to endure on the way down. I started cycling downhill with only two golden rules in mind : always keep to the left (never venture to the right where the slopes are) and always keep one hand on the brakes. It was chilly, cloudy and windy so I decided to ride slowly.
The first 5 kms or so were the toughest part with the roads in a horrible condition. There were huge crater sized potholes, water, slush and snow all making it a challenge to drive the cycle on a straight path. All the while, my handle bars kept shaking and I could not sit on my seat due to the countless bumps I had to endure on the road. It was very easy to lose control and therefore, you had to make sure your full concentration was on the road and your eyes do not wander away from the path (which was difficult to say the least, as the surrounding landscape was stunning).
The road was unforgiving and I was not taking it lightly. With the mountain on one side and nothing on the other side, I had to be careful at all times. The decline and the blind curves made it very interesting. I had to keep on applying brakes to keep the bike under control, at all times. On the way, I came across streams of water with a strong flow - during summers, ice from the mountains melts down and it is a common sight to find water flowing onto the roads.
Cycling downhill was a pure treat as I took in the cold Himalayan air and I stopped to gaze at the Stok range, something which we probably would not enjoy if we had chose to cycle uphill. After a while, the road condition improved and I became over confident as I had negotiated the difficult part of the ride without much problem. I increased my speed as the road was dusty and negotiating it was not proving to be much of a bother. I was so excited that I was cruising at fast speeds and shouting at the top of my voice, with the adrenalin kicking in !
Then, it happened - during one of the hairpin bends, I was cruising at a much faster speed than I should have been. Going straight ahead was not an option as it would have taken me down the slope into the valley. So, I applied my brakes and made a turn to cut into the bend and I was literally thrown over my cycle handlebar into the dusty road. After a minute or two, I gathered myself and despite a knock to my ego and confidence, slowly started the descent once again. Looking back at it now, it seems funny and embarrassing. Even my friend Joel sensed something was wrong when he caught up with me. He guessed it as he could no longer hear my shouts of excitement when I was going downhill at a breakneck speed.
Ten minutes after the accident, the front tire of my cycle got punctured and the guys from the cycling company got to work. After the repair work, it was time to resume the journey. In stretches as barren as this, the only reminder that this was not that remote was when we had tourist jeeps and Bullets starting their Leh Ladakh bike trip by revving up their engines every now and then.
We came across a few cyclists who were unrelenting, wild-eyed and determined to reach the top. The slowness, steep inclines and pain were written all over their faces. I wondered if the idea of hitch-hiking had crossed their minds. Anyways, I was glad that was an issue I didn't have to contend with. Once we crossed the military check post of South Pullu, the roads were better & the ride was smooth.
A little more than two hours after leaving Khardung La, we reached Leh. Before leaving for our guest house, it was time to say "Thanks" to my beloved cycle for a memorable ride !
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