Situated along the Danube river, Bratislava is surrounded by vineyards and the Little Carpathian mountains. This city was founded during the 18th century & is a beautiful place to live. The capital city of Slovakia is a fusion where new meets old, east meets west and green spaces meet urban locales. I arrived here from Budapest and spent a few days in relative calm and peace.
Bratislava is situated near the state borders of four countries - Slovakia, Austria, Hungary and the Czech Republic. In the past, this circumstance, along with intensive trading substantially influenced the the town's population. The city’s history has been strongly influenced by Austrians, Bulgarians, Croats, Czechs, Germans, Hungarians, Jews, Serbs, and Slovaks. My hostel was a testament to this multi national fabric of the city!
After settling in and taking some rest, it was time to begin the walk towards the Old Town. It has been a witness to many historical events. There are many Hungarian palaces & estates and some of the churches have been well maintained till this date. The city has several universities, and many museums, theatres, galleries, and other cultural and educational institutions.
The city is dominated by Bratislava Castle, which stands on a plateau above the Danube. It was built in the 9th century. The castle was converted into a Gothic fortress and was a prestigious royal seat. In 1811, the castle was destroyed by fire and lay in ruins until the 1950s, when it was rebuilt. In Bratislava, there are ruins of a more legendary castle – the fortress of Devin. It was blown up by the soldiers of Napoleon, and in ruined form it became one of the symbols of Slovakia. The Royal Palace is also worth checking out.
The gardens in Bratislava castle and the Royal Palace are nice places to sit and reflect. The story about the 2018 murder of a Slovak journalist (Jan Kuciak) and his fiancée (Martina) occupied my mind the entire time I was in the country (and even beyond that). He was killed after he published 9 stories about a businessman and his business dealings. The killings prompted major street protests unseen since the 1989 anti-Communist Velvet Revolution and a political crisis that led to the collapse of the government. I visited the small shrine dedicated to them - the story gets even more emotional when you learn that the pair were due to be married in a few months. Martina was actually buried in her wedding dress! Crazy, the way things work in this world.
Once you are done with the castle visit, you can take a lovely stroll along the Danube. The city's roads are so clean and tidy and they are ideal for walking. There are many cafes and bars all along the city. The bridge over the river Danube is called the UFO bridge and it has an observation deck cum restaurant open to the public. It is one of the cooler spots to watch sunset from as it offers a nice view of the castle & the city. While tourists flock to take photos of & and from the top of it, many locals despise this bridge (at least a bit) for being a replacement of the historically valuable neighborhoods that were erased because of it.
The St Martin’s Cathedral is the main cathedral located just below Bratislava Castle. It is the largest and one of the oldest churches in Bratislava, known especially for being the coronation church of the Kingdom of Hungary for almost 300 years. Also worth visiting is Slavin, a memorial monument and military cemetery. It is the burial ground of thousands of Soviet Army soldiers who fell during World War II while taking over the city from the occupying Germans.
Back in the city center, Michael’s Gate is one of the most important landmarks. It is the only city gate that has been preserved of the medieval fortifications and ranks among the oldest town buildings. Earlier, it was equipped with a moat, a lifting bridge and a grate. Today, the tower houses the Exhibition of Weapons. Once you cross the gate and enter the old town, it seems like you have entered a different era altogether. If you are hungry (as I was), the dining options in this area are worth trying.
I had lunch at the Slovak Pub, one of the most fascinating places I have been to. It is a real maze where you can learn a great deal about the history of the country. It has an old-fashioned atmosphere, a large selection of home-made fare and the largest selection of Slovak beers in the city. It has various rooms dedicated to the famous people who have contributed to the nation's success - Stur's Room (dedicated to 19th century intellectuals), Poets' Room (Slovak writers & poets), Knights' Room (old Slavic warriors), Shepherd's Hut (showpiece of the pub - it is an original 200 year old wooden house from Hybe village, which was taken apart and put together here), Janosik's room (famous Slovak highwayman who, according to a legend, stole from the rich and gave to the poor).
Slovak Pub is unique for having its own bio farm, located 25 kilometres from Bratislava. Their chefs prepare fresh delicacies from original farm products and the farmers also bake homemade bread and cakes from scratch by grandmother's recipes. I had Kapustnica (local soup), yummy dumplings with sheep cheese, homemade bread, stuffed peppers and strudel (dessert). Also, I finally tasted Kofola, a popular drink in Czech Republic. During communist rule in what was then Czechoslovakia, beverage companies promoted local (and affordable) alternatives to fizzy drinks & sodas associated with Western capitalism. Kofola was one such drink. Flavored with fruit extracts, the dark fizzy brew has a somewhat sweet-and-sour taste.
After a heavy lunch, it was time to find a spot and do some 'people watching'. Luckily for me, I got to see some nice street performances - my favourite was Ivan Holinka. The authorities have given him a permanent place, so that he can perform without any worries. He is so popular that he has a dedicated YouTube channel (Multi Music Chopper) as well. After enjoying some good music, I started my city exploratory walk once again.
There are a lot of interesting statues one can find in the city. Do not miss the "old man in the sewer" statue - the story goes that he is there looking up women's skirts. I hope that's not the case! The statue was a bit dirty, but it doesn't stop the tourists getting themselves clicked alongside this old man.
The next one is Schone Naci Statue. Apparently, this used to be a real man that walked around the old town sharing his good mood and politely asked diners to share a meal with him. He stood there for several years after a girl broke his heart, a little unstable but completely harmless. The town loved him & the girls found him cheeky (he used to greet all women with a kiss on their hand). After his death, the square lost some of its charms & the city decided to recognize his contribution to the city.
One of the places you must visit is the stunning National Theater. It comprises of seven floors which houses a number of artworks and paintings. It is one of the most beautiful buildings in the city. It is located near the main shopping centre Hviezdoslavovo Namestie, which becomes much more attractive during the festive seasons. There are many restaurants and cafes in this place.
Among all the intricately structured cathedrals and buildings, there lies a fairy tale Blue Church in Bratislava. The roof, the ceiling and almost everything else is overflowing with light blue, sky blue, dark blue and any shade in-between. Even the mosaic is in blue.
The Old Town Hall is one of the oldest buildings in the city. It is worth climbing the tower to get some fabulous views of the main square and the city. Plus, it is a perfect vantage point for capturing 3 landmarks in one photo - UFO Bridge, St. Martin's cathedral and the castle. On your way down, you can also check from the town hall officials if you can engage in a jumbo version of Chess!
The heavy lunch I had in the afternoon was well digested and so it was time for some snacks or perhaps a drink. Near Michael’s gate, I saw a sign that caught my eye advertising a different place to have a cup of tea. Inside the cafe, prayer flags and Indian rugs decorated the room. The place is so relaxing that you soon forget where you are. The owner says that she had owned the place for 4 years and although it had never been used as a bomb shelter, the military still had to perform checks on it to make sure it could still be used. If there was a threat of war in the future then she would have hours to vacate it so that the military could come and set it up again as a bomb shelter in the city. Around 45 people can fit in there and there would always be a room left for the doctor. An amazing place to visit!
I really enjoyed just walking through the streets admiring the buildings and taking it all in. Often, this can be one of the most enjoyable parts of visiting a new place. It’s free and you can learn a lot about the people, the city and find important buildings which often aren’t promoted for tourists.
Time passed very quickly in this beautiful country and my only regret was not visiting the countryside. As I was leaving for Austria and planning to visit the Alps there, I had to choose what to visit and what to drop - ultimately, the lure of the Alps proved to be too strong!
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